Liberation Day and The Liberation of America


Ameglia Basso, Magra River, Colli di Luni, & Apuan Alps
One spring day in 1991 we looked out the window onto the Piazza della Liberta in Ameglia and were shocked. There was a long procession led by a priest and a group of uniformed officials and two flag bearers with a huge Italian flag and a huge American flag. This began our education about the Italian holiday Liberation Day and the events it celebrates. We are Americans who had just bought an apartment in the hill town of Ameglia in Liguria.  As we learned more of the history of WWII in Italy, and of the history of the surrounding territory, we came to realize that Liberation Day is our American history as well.  Not the history of facts and dates, but the important history of ideas, dignity, courage, and self-determination. Within the history of Lunigiana and nearby Versilia is an inspiring and emblematic story of part of America's racial and social liberation.

First, a short precis of the events here in WWII (link to more below ).  After Mussolini was removed in July 1943, Italy surrendered, but Germany seized the country and established a puppet regime. The Allies landed in Sorrento and later Anzio, near Rome, and began fighting their way up the peninsula, pushing the German and fascist Italian forces back.  The German army established the Gothic line along the natural barrier of the Appenine mountains to prevent the Allies from entering the plain of the Po. Here at the coast the Gothic line was the Cinquale Canal near Massa, enforced by the Chiodo cannon battery at Montemarcello and the De Lutti battery at nearby Punta Bianca. The Allies were blocked until they, with the help of Italian patriots (partigiani), could break through.

Meanwhile, Allied forces moving up the coast of Versilia and Lunigiana had the naval base at La Spezia as a prime objective. (Area map).  A second objective was Aulla, both as a rail junction and in order to cut off a German retreat up the Magra River valley leading to the Pass of the Cisa and the plain of the Po.  Key to achieving these objectives was overcoming the substantial cannon emplacements at the end of Ameglia's peninsula (Montemarcello and Punta Bianca) about two kilometers to the right of the photo above.

These guns could fire heavy shells 15 miles. As the Allies fought up the coast, they came under fire from these giant guns, and from enemy counterattacks, and the advance bogged down at the fortified Gothic Line at Cinquale in February, 1945.  After valiant attempts to move forward, the advance was called off after 1100 casualties.  In early April 1945, the advance was renewed. Troops advanced through the foothills and engaged the Germans with heavy losses. Tanks and fighter aircraft attacked the guns on the peninsula with more than 11,000 shells. The fighting lasted two weeks until the guns were silenced on April 18. Finally, the Germans retreated as the outcome here and elsewhere in Italy became clear. La Spezia was liberated on April 27, 1945.

Two unique US Army units fought these battles: the 92nd Infantry Division and the attached 442nd Regimental Combat Team. Both units were racially segregated and composed of groups that faced severe discrimination at home, both from the US government and the American public.

Go For Broke Four Four Two!
The 442nd regiment of the US Army is the most decorated unit in the history of the US military. This all-volunteer unit fought to liberate the Lunigiana and Versilia from the the retreating Nazi German army in 1945. Their bravery and determination came despite the fact that many of their families had been forced from their homes and businesses without trial or a hearing simply because of their ancestry.  Most were American citizens, born and bred, yet many of their fellow citizens considered them to be potential spies because of their race. This atmosphere of racism and suspicion lead President Roosevelt to authorize 'internment' with Executive Order 9066 which allowed local military commanders to designate "military areas" as "exclusion zones," from which "any or all persons may be excluded." This power was used to declare that all people of Japanese ancestry were excluded from the entire Pacific coast, including all of California and most of Oregon and Washington, except for those incarcerated in the so-called internment camps.

 The Shibuya family at their California home before evacuation. The parents were born in Japan and came to the USA in 1904. with $60 in cash and a basket of clothes. Mr. Shibuya built a prosperous business raising chrysanthemums. The six children in the family were born in the United States and are American citizens.


The all volunteer Japanese American 442nd. The families of many of these soldiers had been relocated to so-called internment camps because of their ancestry. The 'Go For Broke' 442 became the most decorated unit in U.S. military history for its size and length of service. There were over 9,000 Purple Hearts (wounded in action), seven Presidential Distinguished Unit Citations, and over 18,000 individual decorations for bravery including twenty Congressional Medals of Honor. The distinguished US Senator Daniel Inouye of Hawaii, the 2nd longest serving Senator in US history, served in the 442.



The Buffalo Soldiers of the 92nd Infantry
The nickname 'Buffalo soldier' was given to African-American soldiers by American Indians during the 'Indian Wars' after the US Civil War.  The soldiers' tightly curled dark hair seemed buffalo-like to the natives. It was a term of honor as the Native Americans respected the buffalo. The Buffalo Soldier name has been used proudly as a nickname by African-American US Army units ever since.

This article cannot begin to describe the centuries-long oppression of America's African-American population. These soldiers in 1945 could barely dream of equality. They lived in a society where their second-class status was an unquestioned assumption in much of the US, de jure in the South, de facto in parts of the North. The US Supreme Court ruling forbidding separate schools was still 9 years away, and that would only be a start. Although the progressive FDR was President, he didn't even dare propose anti-lynching legislation to the US Congress, since he depended on the support of southern Congressmen. Even in its hour of need, America could not see beyond its prejudices. Though the US Army was desperately short of infantrymen, the 92nd was the only division of black soldiers sent to combat areas. The African-American officers were hastily selected, and received inadequate training. The senior officers, higher than 2nd Lieutenant, were all white and most were from the US South. No black officer could outrank a white soldier in the same unit.

Despite the odds, the 92nd Infantry fought valiantly and did the job. Of the nearly 13,000 Buffalo Soldiers who saw action, 2,848 were killed, captured or wounded. The 92nd Infantry broke through the Gothic Line. They reached their objectives, captured or helped to capture nearly 24,000 prisoners and received more than 12,000 decorations and citations for their gallantry in combat. They liberated the Garfagna, Versilia, and Lunigiana and were rightly cheered as heroes by the liberated Italian population. 
African-American 'Buffalo' soldiers of the US Army 92nd Division fire mortar shells at German forces near Massa. These soldiers could not eat at white restaurants in the American south.  In one story, widely reported at the time, black soldiers were denied service at a Southern restaurant that was serving German POWs.


Commanding General of the 92nd Infantry (`Buffalo') Division in Italy, inspects troops in a decoration ceremony. March 1945.
Stories such as these can be used for almost any political purpose, but we have none. We are ordinary citizens who are inspired when learning about people who acted with dignity in the face of injustice. People who displayed courage when they were the victims of cowardice.  Individuals who subscribed to society's greater goals when society was abusing them. These actions fulfill the meaning and promise of Liberation Day, not only for Italians and Americans, but for people who yearn for freedom everywhere.

Tangential Info
Many Italian-Americans and German-Americans would be surprised to learn that Executive Order 9066 providing for exclusion zones was initially meant to apply to them as well. Due to political pressure, and the impracticality of applying these measures to larger populations, the policies were largely - but not entirely - reversed or not enforced. Over 600,000 Italian immigrants in the US were classified as 'Enemy Aliens', including two of our Grandparents who had lived in the US for more than 30 years. One English language website for the Italian-American story is Una Storia Segreta  ( the Table of Contents is clickable).

One of numerous ruins at Punta Bianca. 
The ruins of the De Lutti gun batteries at Punta Bianca are now a popular, though rocky, seaside sunbathing spot. Surrounded by cliffs, the remains of diverse concrete structures are dramatic only to those who know the history. They can be reached from the road between Bocca di Magra and Montemarcello (subject to official closure at times due to rock slides). The area is part of the Parco Montemarcello Magra which has several nice hiking trails with pretty views passing nearby. In the forest, one will see deep pits here and there where shells landed in those unimaginable days.
Montemarcello Memorial Piazza December XIII


In the center of Montemarcello is a somber plaque remembering civilians who died when an errant bomb landed in the village center on December 13, 1944. The ruins of the Chiodo gun emplacement are about 400 meters from the village. 




The recent movie 'Miracle at St. Anna' by Spike Lee is a fictional story based on a historical novel of the same name. It features soldiers of the 92nd Division, and it's a sincere movie with realistic, evocative scenes. The St. Anna mentioned is actually Sant'Anna di Stazzema in Versilia and it was the scene of the worst atrocity by German forces in Italy, resulting in the execution of about 560 civilians, mainly women and children and the elderly. Most of the victims were urban dwellers who had sought refuge in the mountains. A visit to the site of the massacre is a very moving experience. Located in the mountains north of Viareggio, momentos from the relatives of the victims and the remote natural setting provides an unforgettable tribute to the dead.

Copyright 2012 www.apathtolunch.com. All Rights Reserved. This article appeared on www.apathtolunch.com and has not been authorized elsewhere.

Comments
As we are not historians, we especially welcome your comments, corrections, and additions.

Links
Area Map Google map with balloons on the places mentioned.
Italian Campaign WWII  An overview with timeline.

US National Archives Summary of the relocation of Japanese Americans
Wikipedia Japanese-American Internment Good overall information on the incarceration of Americans.
Nisei WWII Stories Very well done, moving site which includes personal stories from Japanese-Americans including from the 442.

History.net  Detailed description of the 92nd Infantry Division's combat, 4 pages. Page 4 has the best description of the Massa battle.
Wikipedia 92nd Infantry Well done general information on the unit.
Photos Chiodo battery ruins Italian site with photos of the Chiodo Battery today.
Faces of the 92nd Infantry Read our post about some memorable soldiers in the 92nd.

Written by Martha 

Getting Around: La Spezia - Gulf of the Poets Travel Guide

Bus & Train Information with Driving Directions & Parking

Parking for Cinque Terre & Portovenere. Where to Stay.

Since La Spezia is the transportation hub for its province, we had to write this article to help travelers explore this great place.  So we hope it helps you, but be sure to read some of the good stories listed below like La Spezia Travel Guide - Top 10 Attractions.

Look Below for:  Buses & Bus Schedules
                              Ferry Boats
                              Parking - Free & Pay
                              Hotel Recommendations
                              Cinque Terre connections
                              Excursion Ideas

Travel Tip____________________________________________________________________________
Where to Stay     
Our La Spezia hotel recommendations are at the end of this article.  To see all the La Spezia hotels listed on Booking.Com, use this link: Booking.Com.La Spezia

Learn more about how to minimize the crowds and enjoy Cinque Terre, Portofino & Liguria. To choose the best village and see Martha's hotel recommendations read our helpful:
Liguria Hotel Guide+City Selector
Link: Part 1: Cinque Terre South - Gulf of the Poets
Link: Part 2: Cinque Terre North to Portofino
Link: Part 3: The Portofino Peninsula
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Buses
Two entities handle local buses in our area of southern Liguria and northern Tuscany. ATC in La Spezia province, and ATN (CAT) in the province of Massa Carrara. In this article we are dealing with ATC La Spezia which covers the La Spezia, Portovenere, Lerici, Ameglia, and Sarzana area, and also runs some buses to Aulla and Carrara.  ATC La Spezia has good internet functionality and you should be able to find all the bus info you need with a modest effort, as well as a good deal of information on other related topics.

ATC La Spezia handles many aspects of transport in the larger La Spezia area.  The main website ATC Home is also in English, and provides a broad array of info -  some bus information and links to more; material on parking areas in La Spezia - some with special bus connections; links to boat and ferry services around the Gulf; a link to integrated Ligurian transport information; a Google map function that shows available ATC transport possibilities between addresses; etc.  If you are living or staying in the area, we suggest you investigate this resource even if you don't take buses often.

A separate ATC website ATC Buses is also in English and provides detailed bus info, including a download of the current Orario (schedule); special notices (of a strike, say);  info on connecting mobile devices;  ticket seller locations;  a Google function that provides bus route info between addresses;  etc.  If you download, bear in mind that the schedules or for one season, for example April 1 to June 15, 2016. Though one can't determine a schedule beyond the current time period,  they don't seem to change much. This underlines the need to recheck your information before setting out. We suppose the current schedule can also be purchased at an edicola (news stand) as with train schedules, but we can't verify it.

ATC Schedules. For more detailed bus planning, see the ATC Website - where you can get a full or partial timetable and bus and parking info.  There's also an ATC Trip Planner  which will determine the route from your desired origin and destination and display it on a map.. Remember that the schedules do not name every bus stop (for the precise route, click on the blue bus icons of the Google map which will yield a box with bus routes and times at that bus stop). There are at least two schedules for each route and often some small type at the top of the page clarifying the entries. Note that the word 'Feriale' in Italian, meaning workday, sometimes may not include Saturday, depending on context. However, in the ATC schedules, 'Feriale' DOES include Saturday UNLESS it is modified in the Legend at the top of the page, or there is a separate 'Feriale al Sabato' schedule.  In the legend, Lun-Ven is Mon-Fri, Lun-Sab is Mon-Sat.  'Festivi' means Sunday and holidays (and Saturday if it is explicitly excluded from Feriale). 'Schol' (Scholastico) means school days, and 'Non-schol' means non-school days. The type color of these words corresponds to the type color of the schedule entry. The periods of 'schol' and 'non-schol' are defined at the beginning of the schedule.  The schedules are not as hard to read as it sounds - honest.

ATC Fares & Tickets. Fares are by distance and are divided into codice (codes). Each origin-destination pair has a codice, but we can only find a partial list Codice Sample. For example, La Spezia to Portovenere is 3, to Lerici 3, to San Terenzo 2, to Le Grazie 1, within La Spezia 1.  If you can't guess the codice, ask at a sales point. For each codice, you can buy singles, and you can buy 8 trip tickets, and there are more options travellers don't care about. The rates are a bargain, see ATC Fares. Tickets are purchased before you board at a few self-service machines (singles only) or at any Poste in La Spezia province or at small stores, bars, and newsstands that display the ATC logo. ATC Ticket Sellers are listed here.

When you get on the bus - front or back, you MUST validate the ticket in a little machine, which prints the time and chops off a little piece of the ticket. Otherwise, you do not have a valid ticket, and can be fined on the spot. Many Italians won't be using the little machine because they have monthly passes. Two people travelling together can use an 8 trip ticket, IF they validate it twice. A higher codice can be used on a lower codice trip, but not vice versa. (As per the comment below, realistically speaking the chances of being fined for no ticket or the wrong code are pretty low, especially outside crowded areas. Try to be good, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do).

More Info
Ferry boat trip to Cinque Terre
Boats/Ferries to Cinque Terre, Lerici, and Portovenere
Boat trips to and between the Gulf of the Poets towns of Lerici or Portovenere or to the Cinque Terre are highly recommended. They are available in combinations to suit every traveller. The boats run from about the end of March to the end of October.  In 2014, they are starting March 29.  The official schedules are on the Maritime Coop Website but not until the season nears. Fortunately for you, we have archived the schedules in this article Cinque Terre Lerici Portovenere Boat/Ferry Schedules.  The boats leave from the western end of the Passeggiata Morin which is the waterfront promenade. This bay, its towns, and its landscapes have been justly famous for centuries and they are yours to enjoy for mere money.

Travel Tip___________________________________________________________________
Renting A Car in Italy. If you drive in urban areas at home, you can drive in Italy. Car rental prices are important, but don't rent solely on low price and stick to well known companies. We have articles to help you:            
                           Link: Independent Car Rental Price Comparisons for Italy                           
                           Link: Independent Car Rental Reviews for Italy 
                           Link:Car Rental Tips for Italy - Pick It Up Right 
                           Link: Where to Rent a Car from Cinque Terre? 
Also useful for Portofino area.  We advise getting your car from one of the companies with the fewest problems reported (Avis, Europcar, Hertz, Autovia, Budget) either direct or via a reputable car rental broker such as AutoEurope (NOT autoeuropa, ending in 'a'). The advantages of using AutoEurope are the added services without paying more - low price guarantee; 24/7 help before, during, and after the rental; easy changes and cancellation; as well as available less expensive zero excess (deductible) insurance.** If you find our efforts helpful, you can thank us by making your reservation through these links -using the links do not raise your price.
AutoEurope(US)    Auto Europe(UK) 
Avis(English)      Avis(IT)      Budget Rental (Europe in English) 
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Park & Shuttle La Spezia has two free and convenient Parking & Navette Pageone east and one west, with free bus (navette) shuttle service to the center (except in summer).  For regular users, there are also bike-sharing stands ( see our article Spezia-in-Bici). Parking in the center of La Spezia is tight and always by payment, so this may well save you time, money, and trouble. Here is a Parking Map of all parking area around the city, both free (libero) and pay. ATC also maintains an Italian language Parking Website though it is less useful than it should be.

Parking at La Spezia train station
Central Station Parking
Parking for Cinque Terre at La Spezia
La Spezia Train Parking
Centrale Train Station. There are 116 modern parking spots available at the central La Spezia train station with an entrance from Via Fiume (next to a large golden yellow building). This gives travellers to Cinque Terre a secure option. Parking can be reserved by registering at Centrale Parking. The rates in 2018 were 1.50 Euro per hour or 18 Euro per day with reservation and it's open 24 hours a day. Click the photos to enlarge. Your ticket also is good for 2 people on an ATC bus for up to 2 hours. It also provides access to large clean restrooms. The parking has video surveillance, but do not ever leave valuables in the car and do not leave all your baggage overnight even if hidden.


Free parking at La Spezia
Palasport Sign and Shuttle Bus
Free Parking at Palasport (East) and Piazza d'Armi (West). Approaching the city on Via Carducci after leaving the A15 autostrada, the free Palasport parking area is is a right turn at the first traffic light (small sign) on Via della Pianta. You'll see the sign as you turn, and the lot is on the left, and the bus stop is on the street behind the sign. (Note: Don't count on the bus, info has been impossible to find 1/2019). The lot is huge, and when your friendly test dummies used it, it was only half full. The free Piazza d'Armi lot on the west side of town is on Via XV Giugno a small street off Viale Amendola (opposite the Q8 gas station). There are directional signs in the adjacent intersections. This lot is within walking distance of the train station and open market, but there is also a free shuttle (except summer, see above)Because it is more convenient, it is also more likely to fill up. The only advisory we have concerns the return. In the center of town, the service (Navetta or Speedy Bus) had limited signs at the bus stops. Therefore, before you exit, confirm with the driver where to wait for the return bus. At midday, the headway (time between buses) was 20 minutes, and it's less at rush hour.

Parking for Cruise Boats. New in 2013, there are 40 parking spots available for cruise boat customers at 9 Euro a day. The lot is on the east end of Passegiata Morin. They may be reserved in advance at this Italian language page of the Mobpark Website

Parking for Cinque Terre Boats. Several hundred parking spots are available at Porto Mirabello just a few minutes walk from the Cinque Terre / Portovenere / Lerici ferry boat dock. This is La Spezia's new private boat facility, and it's reached on foot via a suspension bridge at the western end of Passegiata Morin. The auto entrance is further to the west. The cost in May, 2014 was .50E per hour, including overnight. The facility is spanking new and under video surveillance. Parking Map: Porto Mirabello.

Cinque Terre The best way to get there is by train, and there's a Trenitalia link below. For an enjoyable relaxing trip, do not drive to the villages unless you've arranged with your hotel! The roads are narrow, there are many tight hairpins, parking is limited in the extreme, and trains are much easier and quicker. Also consider taking a boat and seeing Portovenere along the way (see above). The National Park website for the Cinque Terre has good intentions, but as it is technically erratic, try this Entry Point as well. Further, the Cinque Terre are subject to landslides from time to time, so monitor info as your trip date approaches. A few trail closings are not a big deal as there are many trails - read what the local blog Little Paradiso says about this. Also look at Trip Advisor Liguria Forum for recent information

Tellaro  Golfo dei Poeti  Liguria
Tellaro  If you want to visit a nice former fishing village without the crowds (relatively) in Cinque Terre, visit Tellaro, just down the Gulf from the beautiful town of Lerici. The Tellaro road is too small for tour buses! It is reached by bus from Lerici or by hiking.

La Spezia Beach  Sorry there's nothing in town. Your best bet is a bus to Lerici's beaches or a ferry boat to the Island of Palmaria.

Integrated Ligurian Transport Planner For Ligurian travel beyond La Spezia province, this may help you make connections, as it combines Trenitalia with local bus operations.

Trenitalia For train schedules and tickets. A train from La Spezia is the best way to get to the Cinque Terre. The trains are frequent, so don't sweat it unless you're getting there early or late. Buying a ticket online might speed things up at the station.

Travel Tip___________________________________________________________________
Where to Stay     -Use this Booking.Com.Italy link to find your hotel anywhere in Italy.
                                      -All the La Spezia hotels are listed here: Booking.Com.La Spezia
Below are links to our La Spezia hotel recommendations. The downtown grid of La Spezia is not huge, and there are no especially trendy or dangerous neighborhoods. Parking is tight in the center, though. Considerations: train access, Cinque Terre ferry, parking, budget, shopping, museums.

Click on the hotel name for more information and booking.
Hotel Crismar Great location in the center between the train station and the port, on the pedestrian shopping street. Loan bikes, small, friendly, no hotel parking. Economical to Moderate pricing.
Albergo delle Spezie Close to the port, ferry dock, two museums, and the public gardens but still downtown with a funky, eco-friendly vibe. No hotel parking. Economical to Moderate pricing.
Hotel Birillo On the edge of town, yet close to the ferry dock, the market, walking distance to the train.  Small rooms, friendly staff.  No hotel parking. Economical pricing.
Affittacamere Casa Dane Very close to the train station, shops and restaurants.  Small, newly renovated, friendly.  No hotel parking. Economical pricing
CMH My One Hotel A larger business hotel, right in the center of town with a multilingual staff. Walk to the train. Parking can be arranged. Moderate pricing.
Hotel Corallo  A larger hotel. It's a manageable walk from the center, but close to the harbor with available hotel parking.  Economical to Moderate pricing.

Learn the Pluses & Minuses of other excellent Ligurian towns, read here:
Part 1 Liguria Hotel Guide & City Selector  Cinque Terre South.
Lerici, Portovenere, La Spezia. Visit Cinque Terre & enjoy the Gulf of the Poets as well.
Part 2 Liguria Hotel Guide & City Selector  Cinque  Terre North to Portofino.
Levanto, Bonassola, Moneglia, Sestri Levante, Lavagna, Chiavari. Visit both Cinque Terre & Portofino.
Part 3 Liguria Hotel Guide & City Selector Towns on the perfect Portofino Peninsula.
Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino, Camogli, Recco.
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Some of our other Liguria Travel Articles
Castle to Castle Along the Gulf of the Poets All about Lerici across the Gulf - exploring, parking, hotels.

La Spezia Travel Guide: Top Ten Attractions as told by people who  have actually been there.


A Guide to the Local Food around La Spezia  Food of the area, as told by expert mangioni.
 
Getting to Portofino - Walking, Hiking, and More  Describes fabulous walking and hiking from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino.

The Most Beautiful Villages of Liguria Part 1 The Rock Villages A 7-part series covering 28 great little towns.

Written by Martha