Great Italian Hill Towns Near Cinque Terre for 2025

Seven Pretty Liguria and Tuscany Hill Towns near Cinque Terre. 

Explore Evocative Old Italian Hill Villages with Castles & Medieval Streets.

Stay In a Castle Hotel / A Hotel In an Ex-Convent / or A Room with a 10 Mile View.

Fosdinovo & the Malaspina Castle/Hotel with Portovenere & the Gulf of La Spezia  . Giorgio Freschi /Turismo In Toscana

Good news, fellow travelers. If you thought you didn't have time to see the Cinque Terre fishing villages and an Italian hill town, you're in luck. You can easily see some wonderful hill towns as you drive to or from Cinque Terre, Lucca or Pisa. We guarantee they are authentic, evocative, pretty, historic, and five other adjectives of your choice.

These seven diverse hill towns are in the border area of Tuscany and Liguria - the part of Italy referred to as Lunigiana. They sit on hills around the lower valley of the Magra River adjacent to the Mediterranean Sea and the dramatic Apuan Alps. They are much older than the Cinque Terre villages and you can enjoy them without a crowd.  We recommend them all, and we've visited each many times. See our Liguria & Tuscany Hill Town Map for orientation and the Getting There section below.

Italian hill towns are a fascinating example of human adaptation, so don't miss the opportunity to explore one or two to imagine and appreciate this unique way of life. They developed first and foremost for defense from attack, but continued to develop for other factors - access to pastures, escape from malaria, to control trade routes, as a visible symbol of power, and more. Modern life and modern economies have passed them by, but they are still available for you. Take the time to visit - you'll be rewarded with timeless sights and memories.

Scroll down or Click the hill town name to jump to the description. Note: We use these names to refer to the Historic Center (Centro Storico). You may also see the name used on maps to refer to the larger comune.

Fosdinovo                 Great views, good churches, and the region's best castle (and a unique hotel).
Castelnuovo Magra   Panoramic views and the ruin of an historic castle with a maze of lanes.
Ortonovo                   In the foothills of the Apuan Alps, it also has a prominent sanctuary and forest paths.
Nicola                         Occupying its own knobby hill, it's the most medieval town and has a good restaurant.
Vezzano Ligure        Two towns - the older perched above the valley; the newer, at age 400, is higher still.
Ameglia                      Ex-home to the Counts of Luni, its castle is surrounded by medieval lanes and houses.
Montemarcello           A Roman army outpost became a movie-set-pretty Ligurian village.

________________________________________________________________________

On our trips, we use Booking.com. We like their verified reviews, search filters, and the handy Map View.    

Booking.com


We have recommended accommodations in the sections on Fosdinovo, Castelnuovo, Vezzano Ligure, and Montemarcello. Book as early as you can - this area is very popular. In 2020, the long Easter weekend is April 11-13.  Book RIGHT NOW for those weekends.

See About Us and Disclosures below. Some of these links may be affiliate links: they do not affect the prices offered.

_________________________________________________________________________

Fosdinovo

Malaspina Castle in Fosdinovo Tuscany.

Located on a twisty road high above Sarzana, historic Fosdinovo is visible for miles around. It's the best undiscovered hill town in Tuscany, in our opinion.  The town dominates its own hill with its tiny main street running up the ridge line to a large Malaspina castle at the height of the town. You'll enjoy wandering the narrow streets, admiring the immense views, and exploring the castle and three churches. If the weather's hot, there's always a cooling breeze here.

The Malaspina castle, with origins from the 11th century, is one of the area's best preserved and you will definitely enjoy it (and it's great for kids). In season it's open every day except Tuesday by scheduled guided tours, for details the url is: Castellodifosdinovo.it  The tour covers the whole castle and includes a dungeon and a dining hall with fabulous murals.

You'll also learn that Dante stayed at the Castle and you can too since the castle incorporates a unique hotel: Booking.com Castello di Fosdinovo.  Also nearby in walking distance from town: Booking.com Il Girasole B&B.

There are three ornate churches filled with paintings and precious marble and they're all on the main street Via Roma / Via Papiriana. The parish church of San Rimigio is in 15th C. style and has an ornate Malaspina funerary monument; just behind it is the 15th C. Oratory of the Red Fraternity (Confraternita dei Rossi) with baroque decor; downhill is the 1468 Oratory of the White Fraternity (Compagnia dei Bianchi) with a blinding facade of white Carrara marble (an oratory is a church sponsored by a lay group or individuals). What a marvel that this little town could attain the splendor of these buildings.
BACK TO TOP

Castelnuovo Magra

Castelnuovo Magra with Fosdinovo in the distance. Dante enjoyed the views in 1306.             CC By Davide Papalini

Late on any sunny day, from miles away, you can admire Castelnuovo shining in golden light on the foothills of the Apuan Alps. It can seem like an apparition, beckoning you to follow the winding road up and up through olive groves and vineyards (Vermentino grapes for the white D.O.C. Colli di Luni). We are in Liguria now, even though it's nearer to Tuscany proper than Fosdinovo (it's a long story).

Castelnuovo Magra Castle

The town itself is surprisingly flat for a town on a hill, a maze of narrow streets and well-tended houses. You'll enjoy the wander, but don't let the modest exterior of these buildings fool you. Some are the palaces of the wealthy from the 17th and 18th century who had no need to advertise their money.

The 12th castle, at the upper end of town, is the town's icon and notable for its tower and for hosting Dante, but not as a tourist. In 1306, Dante, who was a lawyer at the time, brokered a peace here between the Count/Bishop of Luni and the upstart Malaspina family. The castle is no longer whole, but enough remains to imagine more. The views from here are wonderful.

Stay in Castelnuovo with a 10 mile view: Booking.com Dimora Garibaldi or rent an independent house in walking distance from town: Villino La Casetta

The excellent late Renaissance parish church of  St. Mary Magdalene is at the lower end of town. There are three naves, divided by twelve columns of white Carrara marble. In the first chapel on the left, there's a scene of Calvary attributed to Peter Bruegel the Younger. In the second altar on the left is an 18th century painting dedicated to the patron saint of Castelnuovo Magra , San Fedele - the background of which shows a view of eighteenth-century Castelnuovo Magra. Look for a Madonna by Domenico (1589-1669) and a Crucifixion attributed to Van Dyck.

Castelnuovo has been accepted as one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of Italy” so we've written more in our Most Beautiful Villages of Liguria Part 7 story.
BACK TO TOP

Ortonovo

Italian Hill Town of Ortonovo in Liguria near the Tuscan border.

Although important to the Romans as a sentry post above Luni, the historic center of Ortonovo dates from the 11th C. After a steep and curvy climb, you'll find the town perched precariously on a curve on Mount Boscaccia.  There are enjoyable little streets with idiosyncratic houses, an enormous 15th C. Guinigi family watchtower, and one of the narrower road passages you'll ever see. The large pink parish church of San Lorenzo is from 1645 and has a country feel despite the baroque. The poor building hasn't had much attention lately, but there's art and statuary to enjoy in the cool, quiet interior.

More extravagant is the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mirteto (Nostra Signora di Mirteto). This large white church is located a bit downhill from the center of Ortonovo, and it commands views of much of the valley. This is a place of pilgrimage for believers commemorating a 1537 miracle when a painting of the Madonna at the Crucifixion began to shed tears of blood. Inside there's a tempietto (a little temple) from 1796, lots of precious marble, and many votives - one of our favorite forms of folk art.

Another unique feature of this hill town is that it's surrounded by forest. We've described a beautiful, peaceful hike around the slopes of Mount Boscaccia so you can enjoy the woods,  old olive groves, views of the coastal plain and the Carrara quarries, the cute town of Fontia, and a country road. It takes about 90 minutes and it's an easy shady hike with only a couple of moderate short climbs: Hiking the Ortonovo Fontia Ring.  We also describe a slightly more energetic nearby hike:  Walking a Tuscan Forest - Ortonovo to Castelpoggio.

BACK TO TOP

Nicola

Italian Hill Town of Nicola in Liguria near the Tuscan border.

Bring your imagination and your camera to this little town, it's a gem. The streets are tiny, paved unevenly with rocks and lined with houses that are convincingly medieval. Located in the foothills above the coastal plain near Ortonovo, Nicola occupies a perfect little hill surrounded by green. The town origins are by legend in the 6^th C. and by first mention in the 11^th C. There are some remains of a castle and a tower, but the real attractions are the atmosphere, the good views, a cute little church and a good restaurant.

The parish church of Saints Filippo & Giacomo is made special by its very humility. Small and painted bright yellow, it sits on a suitably humble piazza with statues of Saints Philip & James on its facade. It was constructed from the 15th-17^th C. The inside has Baroque décor and paintings and statuary from the 1500's.

Nicola's only restaurant is so good we wrote it up: Da Fiorella in Nicola. For those interested in an authentic regional restaurant that locals seek out, you don't want to miss this.

BACK TO TOP

Vezzano Ligure

Italian Hill Town of Vezzano Ligure Inferiore in Liguria near Cinque Terre.

If you want undiscovered, this is it. Vezzano is where we take guests because it's so genuine, so charming, and its history is so palpable. As a bonus, there are two towns: really old Vezzano Inferiore (basso or lower) and the pretty old Vezzano Superiore (alto or upper). As you drive up, you'll encounter the lower town first.

Vezzano Inferiore.  This town occupies a fabulous location above the confluence of the Magra and Vara rivers with a stunning 360 degree view over the valleys. The town has been occupied since before written records, and the Ligurian tribe had a stonghold here. In the 11th C. the Lords of Vezzano, by virtue of fealty to the Bishop/Counts of Luni, controlled many of the valley towns and beyond as far as Portovenere. By the 13th C., as the Lords and feudalism itself slowly weakened, Vezzano Ligure and the surrounding areas were incorporated into the Republic of Genoa.

On the piazza at the entrance to the old town is the Church of Saints Sebastian & Maria Assunta from 1602. The interior has a peaceful Baroque decor in warm golden colors. While there, note the early 18th C. Pietà of the Madonna in wood by the Genovese artist Anton Maragliona. This is an interesting example of a popular folk Baroque style that never went viral and is now mainly seen in the exaggerated figures in presepi (creches).

Not far from the church you can stay in a well-rated hotel in an evocative ex-convent: Booking.com Albergo Al Convento. Driving to La Spezia Centrale train station parking for the Cinque Terre train takes 30 minutes from the hotel.

The biggest attraction in the old town are the streets - narrow, twisty or straight; good decor and bad; dead ends or unexpected views. You can wander, photograph, or ponder as long as you like and the cats won't care. The large arches with a rooftop garden you may come across constitute the Porta San Giorgio, the old entrance to the town from the valley.   There was a large central castle on the top of the hill, but it's greatly reduced now except for some walls incorporated into houses, a large privately owned manor house - Palazzo Giustiniani, and the very tall watch tower. The tower was built in the 12th C. with five sides for easier defense, and was connected to the castle with a 5 meter drawbridge.

Nostra Signora del Soccorso   Vezzano Ligure Superiore

Vezzano Superiore.  This is the loveliest suburban development you will ever see.  As Vezzano Inferiore became too crowded in the 16th C. and pilgrims began to crowd into the town, the church fathers decided it was time to expand. The result is this cute borgo that you will enjoy visiting.  The upper town is a steady 20 minute climb from the lower town, but you can also drive most of the way up. The first sight to welcome you is ...

The Church of Our Lady of Soccorso (Rescue) in characteristic Ligurian colors decorates the approach to the upper town. The church was built to honor the Virgin who spoke to a woman from a painting in 1524 and promised protection from an outbreak of plague. Inside it's simply decorated and contains said painting showing the Madonna & Baby.  The Piazza in front of the church is beautifully paved entirely with designs created with white and dark gray round cobblestones. This distinct Ligurian art form called 'risseu' is used to enhance public places.

Enter the upper town through an archway off the piazza and enjoy.  The village is an ellipse around a wide center main street / piazza. The homes are fairly uniform and an old style water well is in the middle of the piazza. There are various walkways leading out of the ellipse leading to views and backyards and narrow access roads. Words are poor descriptors for a really good multi-sensory travel experience so you just get this: it's really really adorable.

View from Vezzano Ligure Alto

Absolutely not to be missed is the little park around what used to be the upper castle. The views are staggering - the valley and the mountains and the town of Vezzano Inferiore are laid out before you.  To get there from the well in the center of town, just walk east - away from the sea - and bear left uphill.
BACK TO TOP

Ameglia

Italian Hill Town of Ameglia with its Castle & the Apuan Alps in Liguria.

On a special town-sized hill in its own small valley, Ameglia has a proud look about it. And rightly so, since its castle was home to the Bishop Counts of Luni after the Roman city fell into ruin and the whole Lunigiana region was ruled from here. The castle is in the center of town and is reached by going through a grotto-style arch at the end of the old town's main square – Piazza Liberta.  There are concentric rings of medieval looking streets around the castle and its companion watchtower - the oldest structure in town. The tower has only one door about 20 feet up. When trouble appeared – usually in the form of Saracen pirates – all the town folk would pile into the tower and the ladder would be pulled up.

This town's layout gives evidence of the its pre-Christian origins since the church is on the periphery, and as further proof, there's a necropolis of the Ligurian tribe below the center.  Walk the rings of little streets and you can peek at the residents' rooftop retreats and gardens, see old Ligurian store fronts and slate door frames, and - especially near the church and on the outer ring - enjoy the views of the little valley and the Apuan Alps. The green hills around you are part of the Montemarcello Magra Park and there are numerous hiking trails throughout.

The Church of San Vicenzo is not too fancy, even though it dates from the 15th C. but there are some worthwhile artworks, including a three part marble sculpture by Domenico Gar from 1527. When you exit back through the arch, tip your hat at the plaque honoring the 15 brave American soldiers who were executed by the German army in Ameglia in WWII. We wrote about this awful, precedent-setting war crime here: Liberation Day: The Ameglia Executions.
BACK TO TOP

Montemarcello

Montemarcello sunset.            CC by Pierpeter

Il Paese del Vento - The Village of the Wind - rests on a less precipitous hill and has different origins than many other hill towns. It was a Roman army outpost established about 177 B.C. to protect the city of Luni on the plain to the east. The Roman commander was M. Claudius Marcellus, hence the town name. The original layout conformed to Roman army regulations with long parallel streets leading up to headquarters (near today's central piazza), few cross streets, and Roman defensive palisades which eventually became the former town walls (now streets or building walls).

Today, Montemarcello's a well-kept prize of a village that celebrates the colors and architecture of Liguria. Most of the residents are seasonal now, but also mostly Italian.  The attractions are the village itself - so cool and quiet and pretty; the parish church of San Pietro; a dramatic panoramic outlook on the Gulf of La Spezia; access to the trails and Botanical Gardens of the Montemarcello Magra Park; and access to a hidden beach famous throughout Italy - Punta Corvo.

The parish Church of San Pietro dates from around 1474. It's large for a town this small, and the pleasant Ligurian pink exterior has been recently renewed. Inside the art works of note are (another) 1529 marble alterpiece by Domenico Gar, and in the first chapel on the left, a enigmatic three panel 14th century painting of the Virgin between Peter and John the Baptist.

To reach the panoramic outlook, walk south and seaward from the central piazza. You'll reach the paved road near a garden cafe and across the road is the path. Follow it and fork left (the right fork leads to Punta Corvo). You can see the beach of Punta Corvo below you, and the islands of Tino & Palmaria and the town of Portovenere across the gulf. On clear days, the island of Gorgona is visible.

Close to the panorama is a B&B with exceptionally high ratings:  Booking.com B&B Le Palme

The famed beach of Punta Corvo. Known for its dark sand, pure water, and the dramatic looming cliffs can be reached by a seriously steep path down (and up!) from Montemarcello. Many handsome young Italians do it. We did once as well, so now we tell ordinary folks to go to Fiumaretta (across from Bocca di Magra) and take the boat that runs to the beach.

Montemarcello is one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of Italy” so we've written more in our Most Beautiful Villages of Liguria Part 7 story.

BACK TO TOP

Getting There

See Liguria & Tuscany Hill Town Map for orientation.  Sorry to say, but a car is the only realistic way to reach these towns.

There won't be adequate road signs so you'll need a map (types discussed below). Here are one way time estimates and the autostrada exits to get you started. The A12 (or E80) is the north/south coastal autostrada Genova to Livorno/Rosignano.  The A15 (or E33) is the east/west autostrada from Parma to La Spezia.  SS1 Aurelia means the road designated Strada Statale 1 Via Aurelia (originally Roman!).

Fosdinovo  A12 Sarzana exit or A15 Santo Stefano exit. About 20 minutes.
Castelnuovo Magra   A12 exits Carrara or Sarzana. About 25 minutes.
Ortonovo     A12 exit Carrara. About 30 minutes.
Nicola      A12 exit Carrara. About 20 minutes.
Vezzano Ligure  A12 exit Sarzana 20 minutes or A15 exit Vezzano (westbound only) 10 minutes. From La Spezia SS1 Aurelia, 15 minutes.
Ameglia     A12 exits Carrara or Sarzana. About 15 minutes.
Montemarcello    A12 exits Carrara or Sarzana. About 20 minutes.

Italian Hill Town of Arcola in Liguria

More Hill Towns.  If you are staying in the lower Lunigiana, there are even more hill towns for you to explore. They are mostly smaller and less historic than those above, but fascinating nonetheless. Consider: Arcola, Bolano, Caprigliola, Cerri, Falcinello, Follo Alto, La Serra (Lerici), Ponzano Superiore, Tivegno, Trebiano Magra, and Valeriano Lunense.

Map Types
What's the best paper map?  For driving get 1:200,000 scale. We think the DeAgostini or Touring Club Italiano Touring Club Liguria Map (Amazon Link) series are clearer than Michelin. You can also buy one in Italy -larger bookstores and some autostrada rest stops have good selections, but that takes time.
Should I opt for a GPS for a rental car?  No - they are expensive and many feel they are less useful in Italy. They are not updated often enough and they are useless navigating ZTL's.
Can I Use an App?  Yes, the smartphone apps like Waze or Google Maps are very useful - but still watch for the ZTL limits. You can now download relevant Google Maps for offline use. Read this extensive discussion: Rick Steves Forum.

See About Us and Disclosures below. Some of these links may be affiliate links: they do not affect the prices offered.
______________________________________________________________________________
Hiring A Car? 

Articles: Where to Rent a Car from Cinque Terre - La Spezia, Genoa, or Pisa?
                Independent Car Rental Reviews for Italy
                Car Rental Tips for Italy - Pick It Up Right 

We can recommend the car hire broker Auto Europe where you can compare companies, get zero deductible insurance if needed, cancel easily, and have 24/7 English customer service.  If you will be renting a car, please consider helping us by using the links below (which do not affect the prices offered). See About Us & Disclosures below.

AutoEurope(US)               Auto Europe(UK)              Avis Car Hire           Budget Rent A Car  

_________________________________________________________________________________

We help everyone, even NY Yankees.

About Us & Disclosure
We are Martha and Mike from Boston - recently retired photo editors who enjoy travel, food, and helping people as we've been helped. We have visited Italy for three decades, and we live in Liguria part-time. We have no connection to the car rental or hotel industries, and we receive no payments or free stuff for our writing or opinions. As is internet convention, we receive the standard commission for clicks on many of the commercial links that result in a purchase. Thus your clicks will help support this website.

Written by Mike.  If you find an error or omission please let us know. If you have a question, give us a try. If you don't hear back it's because we don't know or we're traveling.  There's a contact form at the bottom of the page. Thanks.

Ligurian Proverb: Chi si accontenta gode.  Those who are content enjoy.

Some of our Liguria Travel Articles
Cinque Terre - 16 Tips for Avoiding the Crowds  Yes, it's popular, but you can have a great time.

Getting to Portovenere   All about buses, parking, hiking, taxis, hotels, boats in Portovenere.
Portovenere Travel Guide - The Top Ten Attractions Portovenere's attractions for inquiring minds.

Castle to Castle Along the Gulf of the Poets All about Lerici - exploring, parking and hotels.

Getting Around La Spezia  Describes parking in La Spezia, as well as bus info and other goodies.
La Spezia Travel Guide: Top Ten Attractions as told by people who  have actually been there.

A Guide to the Local Food around La Spezia  Food of the area, as told by expert mangioni.
Cinque Terre's Path of Love Is Reopening   But don't reserve yet - it should be in 2023.
 

Getting to Portofino - Walking, Hiking, and More  Describes fabulous walking and hiking from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino.

The Most Beautiful Villages of Liguria Part 1 The Rock Villages A 7-part series covering 28 great little towns.

All the photos here were taken by us unless otherwise attributed.  Use the Contact Box below for our free copyright permission for non-commercial uses.  The attributions 'CC by' indicate photos used through a Creative Commons License. They are not altered and can be found on Flickr (Pierpeter) or Wikimedia (Papalini).

The Beautiful Villages of Liguria Travel Guide - Part 7

The Towns that Make Italians Proud

• Pignone    
• Vernazza    
• Tellaro  
• Montemarcello  
• Castelnuovo Magra

This is Part 7 of a seven part series presenting 28 fascinating and beautiful Ligurian villages of every type - hill towns and castle towns, walled towns and fishing villages.  Each of these small towns has qualified for membership in one of two nifty Italian organizations: The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy  I Borghi Piu Belli d'Italia  -  and The Orange Flags Bandiere Arancioni. Read about these initiatives below in More Info.

You can see all 28 towns on this Google map: Beautiful Villages of Liguria Map and they are listed below as well. They are described from the French border toward La Spezia so you can easily integrate these beautiful towns with visits to San Remo, Portofino, Genoa, or the Cinque Terre.

Each town has a story to tell and some friendly people ready to tell it.  While you can't tour them all, just visiting a few will add an authentic Italian flavor to your trip to Liguria.  If you want to get off the beaten path in Italy, these villages will do it. Please subscribe on the right to receive future installments of The Most Beautiful Villages in Liguria. For information about visiting Liguria in spring, see our story Spring Weather in Liguria.

For other interesting villages in Liguria, read our new article: Great Italian Hill Towns near Cinque Terre

Pignone

Pignone with the steeple of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta.

What hiker in Cinque Terre hasn't wished that they could 'get off the beaten track'? What tourist, hemmed in by the crowds drawn to beautiful Vernazza, wouldn't love to explore an uncrowded and pretty Italian town?  Little do they realize  undiscovered, proud Pignone is just 6 kilometers away as the magpie flies. An evocative, historic town - Vernazza and Monterosso were once suburbs - where the residents greet a visitor with a smile and a bit of surprise, and the history is deep and all surrounding. A town recently awarded the Bandiera Arancione by the Touring Club Italiano.

The history of Pignone is all about its location. Since ancient times, the town has been on trade routes between larger towns. To the Romans, it was on the route between the coast and the cities of Luni to the south and Velleia to the east. In Medieval times, it was on the route between Sestri Levante and Sarzana or the Emilia plain via Varese Ligure. These trade opportunities, combined with its fertile farmland and a location away from the dangers of the coast, allowed the little city a modest prosperity for centuries.

Modest prosperity only, for Pignone doesn't flaunt a wealthy past. The unadorned buildings suggest an economic struggle in the last few centuries, but that has also provided preservation. Walking the stone covered streets past grey and ancient stone buildings will make you imagine your ancestor's lives.

Dominating the skyline of the town is the steeple of the parochial Church of Santa Maria Assunta. The origins were a paleo-Romanesque church from 1,000 and it was rebuilt in 1339 and then it was re-rebuilt in the 1700's.  As you explore, imagine the stir created by the biggest event in town history. In 1312, the Holy Roman Emperor  Enrico VII of Luxembourg visited with a retinue that included homeboy Cardinal Fieschi and 1500 soldiers - well more than the town's population. At the time there was a Fieschi Castello near the medieval entry gate, but little remains now.

Ponte della Madonnina                  Destroyed Oct. 11, 2011

The open center of the town is beautiful. It dates from the 1500's when the surrounding signorial palazzi were built, along with new passageways and defensive works. In the 1700's the Loggia you see was constructed, we imagine as a nod to the communal stirrings of the era. We'd like to direct you to the Bridge of the Madonnina. Instead we found a photo - the bridge was destroyed in the flood of Oct. 2011. Ironically the town cherished the bridge because the Madonna had miraculously survived a flood a couple of centuries before.

The town's pride was not damaged, though, and it celebrates at a large festival in late August: Gli Orti di Pignone (The Gardens of Pignone). Read about the food specialties including fabulous potatoes in our story: Food Is History in Liguria

Up on a hill nearby is the hamlet of Casale where there are two restaurants and the Church of San Martino and an old neighborhood has been nicely restored as vacation housing. There are remains of a castle made into a park which seemed picnic friendly.

In Pignone is the restaurant and small hotel 'Locanda da Marco' on Via del Campanile, 139. Tel. 0187-887950. Website: Locanda da Marco. The place seemed clean and friendly when we stopped by.

There are several hiking trails available between the Cinque Terre, Pignone, and Casale covered by the better Cinque Terre hiking maps. The town website has some tourist information, including Italian descriptions of some trails. Comune Pignone.

Travel Tip___________________________________________________________________

Renting A Car in Italy. If you drive in urban areas at home, you can drive in Italy. Car rental prices are important, but don't rent solely on low price and stick to well known companies. We have articles to help you:     
                        Link: Independent Car Rental Reviews for Italy 
                        Link:Car Rental Tips for Italy - Pick It Up Right 
                        Link: Where to Rent a Car from Cinque Terre? Also useful for the Portofino area.
We advise getting your car from one of the companies with the fewest problems reported (Avis, Europcar, Hertz, Autovia, Budget) either direct or via a reputable car rental broker such as AutoEurope (NOT autoeuropa, ending in 'a'). The advantages of using AutoEurope are the added services without paying more - low price guarantee; 24/7 help before, during, and after the rental; easy changes and cancellation; as well as available less expensive zero excess (deductible) insurance.** If you find our efforts helpful, you can thank us by making your reservation through these links -using the links do not raise your price.
AutoEurope(US)    Auto Europe(UK)                        Avis(English)      Avis(IT)     
Budget Rental (Europe in English)                               Budget Rental (in Italian)
_________________________________________________________________________________

Vernazza

Vernazza                          'My Third Oil Painting'                     Go Matt Olson

Since the whole world agrees with us that Vernazza is beautiful, there is no need for us to write about it. We will just urge you to learn about Vernazza and the Cinque Terre from several realistic sources before you go. The popularity of these villages can create disappointment for the unprepared.

Go to Vernazza because it uniquely offers the sights and experiences that suit your preferences, not because it's on a bucket list, or because yet another travel writer wrote it up.  Italy and Liguria offer many other wonderful choices, it just takes some research.


Tellaro
And here we are finally to Tellaro, “a nirvana between sea and sky, between the rocks and the green mountain.” Mario Soldati

A Tellaro Door

Tellaro is simply magical. Even its history has elements of amazing, unknowable, astonishing magic. The most famous historical tale is that of a dark and stormy night in 1660, when a fleet of six pirate ships crept through the fog to attack the village. The watchman, Marco Arzellino, had tied the bell rope to his foot, and at just the moment the pirates came close enough to land, the bells rang out, alerting the townspeople and saving everyone. Some at the time thought that Marco had luckily twitched in his sleep, others swore that a giant octopus had emerged from the sea and rung the bell for Marco. They still eat a lot of octopus in the area. On the second Sunday in August Tellaro holds the Sagra di Polpo (octopus festival) with their favorite two dishes, octopus "Tellaro-style" (boiled and then chopped and mixed with cooked potatoes, olives, tomatoes, onions, parsley and oil) or octopus "Inferno-style" (stewed with bay leaves, marjoram, chilies, tomatoes and some white wine.)

Tellaro in evening light. People sunbathe on those rocks!            fotosciac

Today Tellaro is magical in its ambiance, in its ancient and colorful houses facing the sea in layers, in the shaded Ligurian lanes called caruggi. The village is actually part of Lerici, but has its own very unique character. For one thing, getting there can be an adventure in itself. It’s on a peninsula, reached by a narrow and curvy dead-end road, with insufficient parking in summer. You can drive in to a certain point, park, and walk; you can park in Lerici and take a cab (about 15 E); or you can take a bus from Lerici. Walking the road would be fine, but there are no sidewalks or direct trails, so it could definitely scare the imaginative. You can also park & hike: drive along the road circling the Caprione peninsula from Lerici towards Montemarcello, park at Zanego (a/k/a Four Corners) and walk down the marked trail. It’s a beautiful walk with fabulous views, but you do have to climb back up! (The walk is described in the last part of our story The Bride's Walk - Ameglia to Tellaro)

Tellaro                                      amalaspezia.eu

When you’re in the town, you can’t go wrong, head down to the sea. The passageways are far too narrow for cars, you just follow the brick walks and very soon you’re at the ocean. There’s a ramp where the fishing boats are pulled up at night, with a shallow splash area for kids to enjoy and pick up the little bits of colored tile smoothed by the tides. Boats are stored here and there. Opposite are rocks where waves make a spectacle during a mareggiata (sea storm) and walkways where ladies inspire bloggers on sunny days (Topless in Tellaro).

There are fabulous views of the sea, the coast, the islands, and the Portovenere Promontory. Walking just a little farther, you round the end of the town, and there are shady places to sit and watch the waves and the rocks and the sunset. As you explore more, you’ll find an old square, and a tiny old 500-year San Giorgio church, and before you know it, you recognize the way you came in.

Tellaro's literary links are explored in the town's page on Borghi Piu Belli.

There is a wonderful gastronomia - Leandro - with groceries, fruit, wine, bread and some of the best pesto you’ll ever taste – artisanal of course - where the stairs approach the piazza. There are a few well-regarded restaurants in Tellaro, mostly on the road into town. Here's our annotated Restaurants and Overview Map of the Caprione Promontory with some restaurant ideas.

Travel Tip
Where to Stay in Cinque Terre?
_________________________________________________________________________________
Use the ferry to avoid the crowds while you enjoy the Gulf of the Poets towns. Read our descriptions and hotel recommendations:
                                            Link: Guide to Portovenere Lerici La Spezia
_________________________________________________________________________________

Montemarcello

We are not unbiased when it comes to Montemarcello, just so you know. Let's start where the light hits the water, at the punto panoramico. Across the street from the Il Giordino bar/cafe on the sea side of town, follow the brick sidewalk - the only turn is a left at the fork. The path will end at a cliff-top overlooking the Gulf of La Spezia. The view is immense and before you is the island of Palmaria and the Portovenere promontory. Below you are the dark sands of the famous beach at Punta Corvo. Big ships wait for berths, sailboats and fishing boats meander, and if you're lucky, the island of Gorgona lurks in the distance. It's a good place to talk or think or smooch or watch for the enemy. True. Before it was a paradise, Montemarcello was a military post.

The Watchtower.

The village began as a Roman castra (military camp) to protect the nearby city of Luni which was then the frontier. The layout of Montemarcello – long parallel streets, smaller cross lanes, streets leading to the commander's praetorium, a surrounding wall – all were prescribed by Roman military tradition. The town's name is Roman too, named after Marcus Claudius Marcellus, the Consul who defeated the Apuani in 155 BC. The views of the Apuan Alps were the chief military advantage – from here you can see Luni and a ring of least five other Roman military sites. The military use of the area continued after the Romans, an ancient watchtower survives probably from medieval times, cannon emplacements were added in the Napoleonic era, and that use continued through WWII.*

Trattoria dai Pironcello in an ancient olive mill.     Montemarcello, Liguria.

It's the feel and the charm of the place that is incomparable. We often enter the town from the Ameglia side near the excellent Trattoria dai Pironcello, a former olive mill. Passing the gate nearby, the quiet shaded streets will calm you like an armchair. You'll find yourself walking slowly and softly - the diffused light and the Ligurian colors lending themselves to your photos.

Montemarcello, c.1770.

There's a changeless feeling, and for good reason – it hasn't. The old part looks just like it did in the adjacent map by Vinzoni circa 1770 - except for one sad difference. At the center of the village there is now Piazza XIII Dicembre, occupied by buildings on Vinzoni's map. In this place on Dec. 13 1944, an allied bomb landed during an attack on a anti-aircraft emplacement 400 meters away. It killed 35 residents - the remains of four were never recovered.** Seventy years later, still there are fresh flowers placed here often.

The only monument in town is the parochial Church of San Pietro from around 1474. It's large for a town this small, and the pleasant Ligurian pink exterior has been recently renewed. Inside the art works of note are a 1529 marble alterpiece on the left wall by Domenico Gar, and in the first chapel on the left, a enigmatic three panel 14th century painting of the Virgin between Peter and John the Baptist.

Montemarcello                                                                              @Girovagate

This entire area is in the large Parco di Montemarcello Magra, with numerous well-marked hiking trails - some along cliffs, some through olive groves and Mediterranean landscapes – all free of fee and people. The trails are the very much the equal of the more famous and more crowded trails nearby favored by lazy travel writers. The website Parco Magra has some descriptions in Italian but does not have useful hiking maps. However they have erected large signs with trail schematics at key points around the peninsula.



We recommend a map sold in local kiosks Bassa Magra Map 141 by 4Land (click to see) - it is recent and has all the CAI trails.

Gardeners and fellow plant lovers please note, the Park also has an interesting Botanical Garden nearby with an English website Orto Botanico which can help you appreciate the unique Mediterranean environment of this area. There are guided tours on some weekends and holidays.

Here's an easy one hour walk we like. Leave Montemarcello on the downhill paved road toward Ameglia. Walk pass the cemetery to enjoy the views of the Alps. Backtrack and across from the cemetery, follow the marked trail down into the forest opposite. After less than a kilometer you'll reach the paved road, turn left and follow it uphill back to Montemarcello.

Montemarcello is well located but accommodations are limited**. The Trattoria dai Pironcello operates a three unit Bed & Breakfast reachable at pironcelli@alice.it. In the village center, the Bed and Breakfast Sotto Le Mura has one unit - contact 331-5246802 or pietro pelizzi@yahoo.it.  A larger facility with 27 rooms, restaurant, and spa has opened recently near the punto panoramico: Golfo dei Poeti Relais & Spa.

We have an annotated Restaurants and Overview Map of the Caprione Promontory with some attractions and restaurant ideas.

* In 1944-45, the batteries of large cannon on this promontory stopped the Allied advance, led by the 92nd African-American infantry division with attached units of Japanese-American soldiers. Read about these heroes: Liberation Day and the Liberation of America.

** Thanks to Laura Rigo at the local website Montemarcello for help with information on the December 1944 bombing and available accommodations.


Castelnuovo Magra

Castelnuovo Magra is a gem. The town is stretched out on the top of Monte Bastione, one of the lovely foothills of the Apuan Alps, with the picturesquely ruined castle, Palazzo Vescovile, on one end to a lovely church, L’Oratorio dei Bianchi on the other. You can see the town in its majestic setting from everywhere along the coast, often catching the sunset light on its crenelated tower.

The ruins of the Palazzo Vescovile at Castelnuovo Magra.  amalaspezia.eu

The main street runs the length of town, narrow and cobbled of course, and not open to traffic. Along the street are mansions from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries: the home of Ingolotti Cornelius, Tonarelli palace and palace Ferrari-Natolini. The parish church is really remarkable, especially for a small town. St. Mary Magdalene dates from the late Renaissance, and was built in the seventeenth century on the foundations of a much earlier building. The church has three naves, divided by twelve columns of white Carrara marble. In the first chapel on the left, there's a scene of Calvary attributed to Peter Bruegel the Younger. In the second altar on the left is an 18th century painting dedicated to the patron saint of Castelnuovo Magra , San Fedele, the background of which shows a view of eighteenth-century Castelnuovo Magra. For good measure, there’s a Madonna by Fiasella Domenico (1589-1669) and a Crucifixion attributed to Van Dyck.

Dante & the Bishop of Luni signing. Fosdinovo Castle.

The Palazzo Vescovile is no slouch either. It was built in the 12th century to control and protect the Via Francigena. And it was here, on October 6, 1306, that Dante Alighieri, in his capacity as attorney of the Marquis Malaspina Franceschino Mulazzo, signed a peace treaty with the Bishop/Count of Luni, Anthony of Camilla, which put an end (sort of) to the struggle between the bishops and the Malaspina family. Imposing ruins remain: a very large battlemented tower, a smaller circular tower, and a crenelated wall loom over a little playground for children.



Since this is Italy, Castelnuovo Magra is known for local specialty food products. Easiest to find are the DOC wines Colli di Luni - the white Vermentino is excellent. There's also olive oil and, best of all, Prosciutta castelnovese.  This is a form of ham that’s very delicate, both in smell and taste, and is produced by Mirco Bertini from a traditional recipe. The meat is boned, and the leanest section is used. It is salted, carefully seasoned by massaging it with a secret herb mixture, then aged at least 7 months. You can buy it at Antica Salumeria Elena & Mirco in via Canale 52, in the flat part of town where they also sell other specialty meats such as spiced pancetta and lardo sausage. The website: Antica Salumeria.

Castelnuovo Magra is also home to the well respected Trattoria Armanda, a tiny restaurant serving terrific traditional Ligurian food. Reservations are necessary, there are sample menu items and contact info on their website: Trattoria Armanda Phone: 0187-674410.

Information in Italian about the town with excellent photos are in a fantastic online brochure Comune Castelnuovo Magra. It includes a map and lists of local winemakers, lodging, etc.

More Info.

Itinerary Map - Create your Ligurian itinerary: Beautiful Villages of Liguria Map

New Story     Link: Great Italian Hill Towns near Cinque Terre

I Borghi Piu Belli d'Italia - The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy - is an independent association of 206 Italian towns that meet criteria of architectural integrity, quality of life, as well as artistic and historical heritage. The borghi have joint promotions, joint festivals, and a guide book.  The website I Borghi Piu Belli d'Italia has nice English descriptions of each of the localities making it a useful tool for planning travel to other parts of Italy. Eighteen of the villages wait for you in Liguria.

Bandiere Arancioni  - The Orange Flags - is an initiative of Touring Club Italiano to identify localities of excellence in Italy. These Italian towns must pass numerous tourist-oriented criteria related to welcome, attractions, services, structure, and environment.   The website Best Small Towns Italy provides information about each town and the process in English, and in Italian Bandiere Arancioni tells all. Thirteen towns in Liguria have been awarded the Bandiera Arancione.

Written by Martha

Index to The Most Beautiful Villages in Liguria - Click the Part Number. Towns in the seven parts.

Part 1: Ventimiglia / San Remo area:
                          Airole   Dolceacqua   Apricale   Pigna   Seborga

Part 2:  Imperia / Alassio area:
                           Triora    Lingueglietta    Cervo    Laigueglia

Part 3: Albenga area:
              Colletta di Castelbianco    Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena   Zuccarello    Toirano

Part 4:  Finale Ligure area:
                           Borgio Verezzi    Finalborgo    Noli

Part 5:  Savona / Genoa area:
                           Millesimo    Sassello    Campo Ligure

Part 6:  Rapallo / Levanto area:
                           Santo Stefano d'Aveto     Moneglia    Varese Ligure     Brugnato

Part 7:  Cinque Terre / La Spezia area:
                           Pignone    Vernazza    Tellaro    Montemarcello    Castelnuovo Magra